Midway Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park

Ask Me: The Ultimate Family Tour of Yellowstone

In Ask Me, Family Adventures, Hiking, National Park Adventures   |   Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,   |   5 Comments

Hi Michael-

My husband and I live in Missoula with our two boys, ages three and five. We are spending three nights in Yellowstone over Mother’s Day weekend, and it will be our kids’ first visit. Two questions: Any particular Y’stone books you recommend for kids? Also, this is a bit of a silly question, but are there any sites or activities that were unexpectedly or just especially fun?

Thanks for your help and for the inspiration to get outside with the kids even when the thought of packing the car is feeling daunting.

Take care,


Mammoth Hot Springs

Mammoth Hot Springs

Hi Laurie,

Thanks for getting in touch. I’d be happy to offer some suggestions for what to see with your kids in Yellowstone. I’m glad you asked, actually, because you’ve given me an excuse to post a suggested family tour of Yellowstone in summer (or from spring through fall), which I’ve been wanting to do. I may have more suggestions below than you’ll fit into a long weekend, but I hope this is helpful and gives you ideas for a return visit.

By the way, our kids’ first trip to Yellowstone was at ages four and two and they loved it. Yours are at a great age to enjoy the park because the landscape there is so active and right in front of you, and so many features require only a short walk to see them. I’ll order my suggestions in a way that makes sense if you’re traveling through the park.

Entering Yellowstone through the North Entrance (via Livingston), you’ll hit Mammoth first. The walk around Mammoth Hot Springs is easy, gorgeous, and pretty cool for kids. Mine were fascinated by all the leaves, sticks, and other vegetative matter that had fallen into the springs and become crystallized. And there are usually elk grazing right in Mammoth village and along the road up to the springs.

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The northern road to the Lamar Valley is a great area for seeing wildlife: bison, elk, coyotes, maybe even bears and wolves if you’re lucky. (Winter is actually a better time to see wildlife; when your kids are a little older, you should take them cross-country skiing in Yellowstone, which I think is one of the greatest national park experiences.)

Heading south, Tower Fall is a fairly short hike to an impressive waterfall, with views of the canyon of the Yellowstone River. The drive over Mount Washburn and Dunraven Pass gets you to the highest spot on a road in the park, with quite spectacular views along the way. The hike up Mount Washburn from Dunraven Pass follows a wide path to the summit, which offers a 360-degree panorama of the entire park.

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The brink of 308-foot-tall Lower Yellowstone Falls, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River.

The brink of Lower Yellowstone Falls, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River.

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River is one of the scenic highlights of the park. I like cross-country skiing it in winter, but spring-summer-fall are cool, too, although busy with tourists there. If your family is up for it, hike the fairly flat, 6.4-mile, out-and-back of the North Rim Trail from Inspiration Point (near Canyon) to Upper Yellowstone Falls; you’ll pass several viewpoints of the canyon. (The trail also partly parallels the North Rim Drive, so you can take shorter walks to viewpoints along the trail from parking areas along the road.) One of the highlights is the steep but short (three-quarters-of-a-mile round-trip) spur trail to the very brink of 308-foot-tall Lower Yellowstone Falls (above photo).

Otherwise, take the very short walk to Artist Point for its killer view of the canyon, and the short walk to Upper Yellowstone Falls.

When my kids were little, we walked down Uncle Tom’s Trail, which drops a very steep 500 feet down metal stairs bolted into the cliff to an overlook by Lower Yellowstone Falls—really cool spot, but it’s a strenuous climb back out for little kids. My four-year-old made it and, of course, I carried my two-year-old.

Continuing south, plan to pull over in the Hayden Valley and have binoculars, it’s another of the park’s great spots for seeing wildlife. Also, stop and take the walk around the Mud Volcano area, which isn’t as well-known but has wonderful, stinky, belching mud pots.


Abyss Pool, West Thumb Geyser Basin, Yellowstone.

Abyss Pool, West Thumb Geyser Basin, Yellowstone.

On our last visit with our kids, I visited the West Thumb Geyser Basin for the first time and was blown away by the colors in the thermal features there. Highly recommend it. There was also a good restaurant for lunch in West Thumb, as I recall.

If you had one to three days to spare (perhaps on a later visit), and bring or rent a canoe, paddle across Lewis Lake, pull the canoe up through the slack water connecting Lewis to Shoshone Lake, and then canoe around and camp on Shoshone Lake; it’s a classic, fairly easy backcountry trip in the park (although the wind can pick up and raise whitecaps on Shoshone Lake). The Shoshone Geyser Basin is widely considered the best backcountry geyser basin in Yellowstone.

Another classic hike is the overnight out to Heart Lake and the side hike up Mt. Sheridan. Lots of wildlife, including grizzly bears, in that area (it’s typically closed in spring because of bear activity in there), and there’s a nice geyser basin at Heart Lake.

Old Faithful, Yellowstone

Old Faithful

Even though it’s easy for adults to be turned off by the massive crowd, take the kids to watch Old Faithful erupt. We were with other families with young kids for that, all age two to four, and they busted out laughing so hard that all the parents started laughing. Then hike around the Upper Geyser Basin (behind Old Faithful) to see the various geysers, Morning Glory Pool, etc. You may see bison and other wildlife there, too.

The kaleidoscopic Grand Prismatic Geyser, in Midway Geyser Basin, is one of my favorite spots in the park. The Lower Geyser Basin has some belching mud pots, like Fountain Paint Pot, whistling fumaroles, and geysers, too, one of which erupted when my kids were there. As early in the season as you’ll be there, you might see some grizzly bears along the stretch of road between Midway and Lower Geyser Basins. The bear are known to feed on winter-killed elk in there in spring.

The road to West Yellowstone, following the Madison River, is very scenic and a good area to see bald eagles (there’s consistently a nest in a snag along the road there every spring); watch for trumpeter swans in the river.

Lastly, Norris Geyser Basin is worth taking some time to explore, as this online tour of Norris shows.

To answer your question about books: The visitor center in Mammoth Hot Springs has a good bookstore, and I’m sure other visitor centers in the park do, too.

I hope that’s helpful. Let me know if you have other questions, and I’d love to hear how your trip goes. Get in touch anytime.

Here’s my opportunity for shameless self-promotion: You might also be inspired by my book, Before They’re Gone—A Family’s Year-Long Quest to Explore America’s Most Endangered National Parks, about taking our kids (at age nine and seven) on a series of national park wilderness adventures.

Thanks for following The Big Outside.


Hi Michael,

Holy cow. That’s a helluva response. My sincere thanks. We are really looking forward to getting out of Dodge and having family time in a beautiful spot. Thanks again for your help.

Take care,

In Ask Me, I share and respond to a reader question. Got a question about hiking, backpacking, gear, or any topic or trip I write about at The Big Outside? Send it to me at mlanza@thebigoutside.com, message me at facebook.com/TheBigOutside, or tweet it to @MichaelALanza. I will answer the ones I can in a post, using only your first name and city, with your permission. I now receive more questions than I can answer, so I ask that readers sending me a question be willing to make a $25 donation to this website through my Support button (top left of sidebar), for the time and expertise I put into a response. I will also provide a telephone consult for a $45 donation. Write to me first and I will tell you whether I can answer your question (I usually can); I will respond as quickly as I can. First scroll through my Ask Me page and All Trips pagesskills stories, and gear reviews for answers to your questions before writing to me.


Grand Prismatic Geyser.

Grand Prismatic Geyser.

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5 Responses to Ask Me: The Ultimate Family Tour of Yellowstone

  1. Joe   |  May 28, 2015 at 9:16 pm

    If you’re travelling with kids who are good swimmers, there’s no greater thrill than jumping into the short rapids at the swimming hole on the Firehole River (on the Firehole Canyon Drive). Went there with my 13 year old niece and she spent hours just jumping into the rapids and letting them shoot her down the 20 yard run – she had almost as much as fun as I did! Better than any water park!

  2. Paul   |  May 8, 2013 at 8:00 am

    Awesome family focused article! I love hearing about the not so mainstream places to go! Those are usually the best! Keep up the good work Michael, it is much appreciated!!

    • Michael Lanza   |  May 8, 2013 at 8:06 am

      Thanks Paul.

    • Brenda Kadrmas   |  June 4, 2014 at 8:10 pm

      Our family has been to Yellowstone only once, but it was a great time. Our kids were seven and nine during the summer of 2013. We really enjoyed staying at the Madison campground. When we were tired at the end of the day, we could relax by the river and just slowly meander it. We also stayed at Bridge Bay, but there wasn’t room to explore. Our kids enjoyed the drive between Norris Geyser Basin and Mammoth because it seemed like the scenery was constantly changing. We waded in a lot of rivers and rated them on their temperature. Firehole was the warmest by far! We had fun exploring a lot of side roads. We will definitely go there again!

      • michaellanza   |  June 4, 2014 at 8:39 pm

        Nice story, Brenda. Thanks for sharing it.

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