Ask Me: Where to Backpack First Time in Yosemite
Going to Yosemite this year, 4-day trek. The Valley and hopefully Half Dome. Never been. Any suggestions?
[Originally sent as a message to facebook.com/TheBigOutside]
Yup, here’s what I’d do on a first-time trip to Yosemite if you want to hit the classic highlights like The Valley and Half Dome. This is close to what I did on my first backpacking trip in Yosemite, long time ago, but modified because I know better now.
Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley is probably the most popular trailhead in the park, and the park issues backcountry permits based on a daily quota of people starting from each trailhead, so it’s hard to get a permit to start at Happy Isles. But if you get it, hike up the Mist Trail to Little Yosemite Valley (also hugely popular) to camp your first night.
Get an early start that first day so you can get ahead of the Mist Trail crowds and hike Half Dome (lead photo above is from the top of Half Dome) without your gear that first afternoon; by then, most hikers are coming down, you’ll share the summit with fewer people (but make sure no afternoon thunderstorms are threatening). Or even better, hike Half Dome really early on day two, ahead of just about everyone—I’ve done that, it’s when you’ll share Half Dome with the fewest people. (Check the Half Dome hike option when applying for your permit.)
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Day two, head north on the John Muir Trail to camp at Sunrise. Day three, from Sunrise, hike over Clouds Rest, one of the best summits in the park, and descend to camp again in Little Yosemite Valley.
Last day, hike down the John Muir Trail back to Happy Isles, passing a classic view of Nevada Fall, Liberty Cap, and the backside of Half Dome (the photo below).
My e-guide to that route describes it in far greater detail, including suggested daily itineraries for hiking it in four or five days, plus alternate itineraries for backpacking trips in that spectacular core of Yosemite, between Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows. It shares my insights on getting a coveted permit in Yosemite and my experience of multiple trips in this area of the park.
Click here now for my e-guide to “The Best First Backpacking Trip in Yosemite.”
On this hike, you won’t go more than a couple hours without passing water except on one day: hiking over Clouds Rest. We didn’t hit any water source in September. I don’t know of any seasonal source that would be available along those trails earlier in summer, either. Carry three liters when you start that day.
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By the way, apply for your permit as soon as you can; they’re available 24 weeks (168 days) in advance, meaning you’ll want to apply sometime between late January and late March for trip dates between mid-July and mid-September. See this page at the park’s website for more info.
If you can’t get a permit to start at Happy Isles, you can do almost the same route starting at Glacier Point, following the Panorama Trail to Nevada Fall.
See all of my stories about Yosemite, including “Best of Yosemite, Part 1: Backpacking South of Tuolumne Meadows” and “Best of Yosemite, Part 2: Backpacking Remote Northern Yosemite,” about gorgeous, long trips in the park’s two most remote areas, trips to consider when you’re ready for a bigger adventure in Yosemite.
My e-guides to those two long hikes south and north of Tuolumne tell you everything you need to know to plan and successfully pull off either trip.
Yearning to backpack in Yosemite? See my e-guides to three amazing multi-day hikes there.
Thanks for asking a good question. Good luck.
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You are so AWESOME. I am sharing this with my friend David, ret. U.S Navy. He is my fellow adventurer.
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