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Backpacking 150 Miles Through Wildest Yosemite

Backpacking 150 Miles Through Wildest Yosemite

By Michael Lanza

In early evening on a bluebird September day, deep in northern Yosemite National Park, my friend Todd Arndt and I—with legs a little weary—reached our fourth pass on a 23-mile day, the second day of a four-day, 87-mile hike. Only a quad-melting, 1,500-foot descent stood between us and soothing our feet in the cool sand and cold water at Benson Lake (possibly the most unbelievable mountain lake I’ve ever seen).

We hiked past quiet tarns where a few backpackers were camped. And it struck me that they were the first people Todd and I had seen all day. That’s not an observation one expects to make in Yosemite. But we were exploring the “other Yosemite”—not the overcrowded park, but its most remote backcountry, on one of the best multi-day hikes I’ve ever taken.

There’s a back story here. After several visits to Yosemite, backpacking, dayhiking, and climbing, I had become kind of obsessed with the fact that I had still not explored the park’s two most expansive swaths of wilderness: the Clark Range and Merced River headwaters south of Tuolumne Meadows, and even vaster northern Yosemite.

So I set out to finally fill in that glaring omission in my backpacking résumé, concocting an ambitious plan to make a 152-mile grand tour of Yosemite’s most remote backcountry in one week, divided into two legs, resupplying between them.


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Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River.

Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River, Yosemite.

First came a three-day, 65-mile loop south of Tuolumne Meadows, including two of Yosemite’s most thrilling summits, Clouds Rest and Half Dome, plus walking through the Clark Range and tagging the highest pass reached by trail in the park, 11,500-foot Red Peak Pass.

That was to be immediately followed by a four-day, nearly 87-mile walk through the biggest and most remote chunk of wilderness on the Yosemite map: a circuit north of Tuolumne Meadows through a vast realm of deep canyons like the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River—which is sort of like Yosemite Valley, but twice as long, with most of the people and all of the buildings and cars removed. We crossed passes at over 10,000 feet below peaks rising to over 12,000 feet, and stood atop a peak often described as having the best summit view in Yosemite.

Smoke from wildfires sent three friends and I home after completing the 65-mile hike. So Todd and I returned to Yosemite a year later and knocked off the 87-miler.


Get the right pack for trips like Yosemite. See my picks for “The 10 Best Backpacking Packs
and the best thru-hiking packs.


Scroll through the photo gallery below and you’ll see why that 152-mile grand tour of Yosemite’s most remote areas ranks among “America’s Top 10 Best Backpacking Trips.” Below the gallery, find links to my feature stories about both of these backpacking trips and links to my exclusive e-guides that will help you plan and successfully pull off either trip.


Hi, I’m Michael Lanza, creator of The Big Outside, which has made several top outdoors blog lists. Click here to sign up for my FREE email newsletter. Click here to learn how I can help you plan your next trip. Click here to get full access to all of my blog’s stories. Follow my adventures on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and Youtube.


See my blog’s feature stories “Best of Yosemite, Part 1: Backpacking South of Tuolumne Meadows,” about the 65-mile first leg of that grand tour of Yosemite, and “Best of Yosemite, Part 2: Backpacking Remote Northern Yosemite,” about the 87-mile second leg. Both stories have many photos, videos, and details on planning each hike—in however many days you’d like to take (most backpackers would probably take six to eight days on them). Like most stories at The Big Outside, a paid subscription (costing as little as $5) is required to read these two; click the blue button below for more information.

Yosemite accepts backcountry permit applications 24 weeks (168 days) in advance of the date you want to start backpacking. That means that for starting on a date in mid-July, you should submit your application in late January.

But you can still get a backpacking permit for this summer, even without a reservation. For each trailhead, 60 percent of available permits can be reserved in advance, while the remaining 40 percent are available on a first-come, first-served basis no earlier than 11 a.m. the day before your hike begins, as long as permits are available. See my “10 Tips For Getting a Hard-to-Get National Park Backcountry Permit” and the feature stories linked above for more about permits.

Want to take either of these amazing trips? My exclusive e-guides tell you everything you need to know (in much deeper detail than the feature stories) to plan and successfully pull off either trip. I’ve created e-guides to the 65-mile hike south of Tuolumne (called “The Best Backpacking Trip in Yosemite”) and the 87-mile hike north of Tuolumne (called “Backpacking Wild, Uncrowded Northern Yosemite”); see both links below.


Click here now for my e-guide “The Best Backpacking Trip in Yosemite.”


Click here now for my e-guide “Backpacking Wild, Uncrowded Northern Yosemite.”


I can also personally help you plan these trips or any trip you read about at The Big Outside. See my Ask Me page for details.


Tell me what you think.

I spent a lot of time writing this story, so if you enjoyed it, please consider giving it a share using one of the buttons below, and leave a comment or question at the bottom of this story. I’d really appreciate it.


See all of my stories about Yosemite National Park, including “The 10 Best Dayhikes in Yosemite,” “The Magic of Hiking to Yosemite’s Waterfalls,” and “Thru-Hiking the John Muir Trail in Seven Days: Amazing Experience, or Certifiably Insane?


Get full access to my Yosemite stories and ALL stories at The Big Outside, plus a FREE e-guide. Subscribe now!

About The Author

Michael Lanza

A former field editor and primary gear reviewer for Backpacker Magazine, Michael Lanza created The Big Outside to share stories and images from his many backpacking, hiking, and other outdoor adventures, as well as expert tips and gear reviews to help readers plan and pull off their own great adventures.


  1. Avatar

    That is the thing which is called as an adventure and other than this are just kids’ work. You have done a tremendous thing. Thanks for sharing this post.

    • MichaelALanza

      Thanks. It’s definitely a great adventure.

  2. Avatar

    Great articles! On the Yosemite trips, if you could only choose one of the options, would you recommend the north or the south?


    • Michael Lanza

      Thanks, Craig. Honestly, both trips certainly have lots to recommend them. I suggest you decide based on how long and difficult a trip you want to take; the North Yosemite hike is longer and, I think, more difficult. If choosing between them based on character and specific highlights, the hike south of Tuolumne does hit Clouds Rest and Half Dome, which are spectacular and also, in the case of Half Dome, much busier; while North Yosemite is more remote.

      I’d also suggest that, given the challenge of just getting a backcountry permit in Yosemite, if you’re interested in both, submit a permit reservation application that lists both as separate alternatives, in hopes of getting one of them.

      See my “10 Tips For Getting a Hard-to-Get National Park Backcountry Permit:”

      Good luck.


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Hi, I’m Michael Lanza, creator of The Big Outside and former Northwest Editor at Backpacker magazine. Click my photo to learn more about me and my blog. Click here to sign up for my FREE email newsletter. Join The Big Outside now to get full access to all of my blog’s stories. And click here to learn how I can help you plan your next trip.

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