Welcome to The Big Outside’s Trip Planner for backpacking the Northern Loop in Mount Rainier National Park.
This planner describes how to plan and execute a backpacking trip on Rainier’s 37.2-mile Northern Loop, the trip featured in my story “Completely Alone Backpacking Mount Rainier’s Northern Loop” at The Big Outside. That story includes photos from this trip.
Rainier’s Northern Loop is a scenic and much shorter alternative to the mega-popular Wonderland Trail that includes one of the best sections of the Wonderland, but is an easier backcountry permit to get than the full Wonderland.
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If you would like my personal, customized help fully planning this trip for you—or any other trip you read about at this blog—see my Ask Me page for details on how I can do that for you.
—Michael Lanza
Backpacking the Northern Loop, Mount Rainier National Park
THIS TRIP IS GOOD FOR moderately experienced backpackers and families with children—basically anyone capable of hiking several miles a day, on sometimes rocky or snow-covered trails, with moderate elevation gain and loss. The main challenge is weather, which can change quickly and vary greatly on different sides of the mountain: high winds and cold rain and even snow can occur any time of year, though the east side of Mount Rainier is drier than the west side. This trip is on Rainier’s north side, so weather can be a mix of what’s occurring east and west of the mountain. Black bears are the only large animal of concern, but they rarely pose a threat or problem; designated campsites have bear poles for food storage. Trails are generally obvious and well-marked.
Season Mid-July through September is peak season, though trails sometimes remain snow-free and the weather good into October, a time when there are fewer backpackers. Snow often covers higher trails well into July, but lower-elevation trails are snow-free by late spring; check conditions with rangers.
The Pacific Northwest often has stable, dry weather and pleasant temperatures from early or mid-July well into September. Summer temperatures typically range from highs in the 70s and 80s Fahrenheit to lows in the 40s and occasionally 30s. Still, major rainstorms can hit in summer, and cold, heavy rain or snow can fall in late summer, so check the forecast before hiking into the backcountry.
The Itinerary The Northern Loop traditionally started from the end of the Carbon River Road, in the park’s northwest corner. But that road has been closed to vehicles beyond the Carbon River ranger station on the park boundary since the November 2006 flood. To start the hike here, you must walk or mountain bike five miles of closed road to the Ipsut Creek Campground, which is now managed as a backcountry campground; this adds 10 miles round-trip to the 32.8-mile Northern Loop.
The most direct access now is from Sunrise, where you can hike 2.2 miles of trail to reach the Northern Loop above Berkeley Park, making the total hike 37.2 miles (to start and finish at Sunrise). The loop can be hiked in either direction; if possible, plan your itinerary to camp at Mystic in clear weather to catch the early-morning view of Mount Rainier reflected in the lake’s calm waters.
Getting There To reach Sunrise, from WA 410 outside the park’s White River (northeast) Entrance, follow Sunrise Road to its end. To begin from the Carbon River ranger station, follow WA 165 south from Wilkeson; where WA 165 bears right, continue straight onto the Carbon River Road and follow it to its end.
Permit A permit is required for backcountry camping. You can make a reservation or obtain one first-come, but many campsites, especially along the Wonderland Trail, become fully booked from July through September. The park begins accepting reservation applications on March 15, only online, for up to about 70 percent of backcountry campsites, for trips beginning through the end of September; after that, permits are only issued first-come, in person.
All requests received between March 15 and March 31 are processed in random order, so submit a reservation application during that time period: The park stops accepting reservations for the Wonderland Trail on March 31 (in past years, all reservable campsites for the Wonderland were often booked for the entire backpacking season by April 1). There is a non-refundable, $20 reservation-application fee. Find more information at nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/wilderness-permit.htm.
See my tricks for snagging a permit in my “10 Tips For Getting a Hard-to-Get National Park Backcountry Permit.”
Map Trails Illustrated Mount Rainier National Park map no. 217, natgeomaps.com.
Concerns Black bears are the only large animal of concern, but they rarely pose a threat or problem; designated campsites have bear poles for food storage.
Gear Tips Bring clothing layers, boots, and a three-season (not mountaineering) tent that can handle more wind and weather than you might expect in summer in mountain ranges farther south. That includes a higher-quality, waterproof-breathable rain jacket with an adjustable hood that provides full coverage, and supportive, waterproof-breathable boots that will keep your feet warm and dry in cold, wet conditions.
See my Gear Reviews page at The Big Outside and these reviews for my top recommendations:
“Gear Review: The 10 Best Backpacking Packs”
“The Best Ultralight/Thru-Hiking Packs”
“Gear Review: The 5 Best Backpacking Tents”
“Review: Essential Backpacking Gear Accessories”
“The 5 Best Rain Jackets for the Backcountry”
“Review: The 10 Best Down Jackets”
All of my reviews of backpacking boots and hiking shoes.
Contact Mount Rainier National Park, (360) 569-2211, nps.gov/mora.