It’s a just-about perfect morning, with mild temps and a gentle breeze, as I start hiking from Elkhart Park in the Wind River Range on the second day in September, carrying six days of food in my pack and a bundle of high expectations. Just as an experiment, I start counting the number of hikers I pass on the Pole Creek Trail and tally almost 40 in the first two hours, all but two of them backpackers and almost all of them heading in the other direction, back to the trailhead. This doesn’t surprise me—it is the day after Labor Day.
But after that first two hours and more than five miles of hiking, as soon as I pass the junction with the Seneca Lake Trail, the parade stops. Over the rest of today, I’ll encounter a half-dozen backpackers.