National Park Adventures

Hikers passing the largest of the three Emerald Lakes along the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, North Island, New Zealand.

Hiking New Zealand’s Epic Tongariro Alpine Crossing

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By Michael Lanza

When we arrive at the Mangatepōpō Road end to start one of New Zealand’s most beloved dayhikes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, the air remains cool, a bracing wind rips across the almost barren, volcanic landscape, and the cloud ceiling hangs so low you can almost reach up and swipe a hand through the fog’s underbelly. But this is New Zealand, where if you’re going to pass on a hike because of a little inclement weather, you’re going to miss out on a lot of hikes. We—and scores of other hikers all around us—are suited up for the elements and ready to go.

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A backpacker on the Teton Crest Trail, North Fork Cascade Canyon, Grand Teton National Park.

Backpacking the Teton Crest Trail—A Photo Gallery

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By Michael Lanza

As we backpacked up the North Fork of Cascade Canyon on the Teton Crest Trail in Grand Teton National Park, moments after the path emerged from the forest into a meadow strewn with boulders and still dappled with blooming wildflowers in late August, my friend David turned to look over his shoulder and blurted out, “Oh, wow, look at that view!” Behind us, the sheer north faces of the Grand Teton and Mount Owen towered a vertical mile above us, shooting straight up over the canyon like fireworks (photo above).

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Lower Yellowstone Falls in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, Yellowstone National Park.

For the Enjoyment of Future Generations

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The Government is Gutting the National Park Service. Will We Just Remain Silent?

“The service thus established shall promote and regulate the use of the Federal areas known as national parks, monuments, and reservations… which purpose is to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wild life therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.”

—The Organic Act of 1916, creating the National Park Service

By Michael Lanza

With the widespread, deep cuts to federal spending, which have often seemed chaotic and not even remotely thought out, since President Trump began his second term in January, I’ve occasionally heard from readers of this blog asking what they should expect visiting the national parks this year. I haven’t really had a good answer, in part because there seemed neither any plan behind the cuts nor much information about how and where funding would be slashed.

I backpacked in the Grand Canyon in late March and, besides one unusually long line to board a shuttle bus, I didn’t see evidence of any deterioration of public services or natural resources. Like, perhaps, many people, I wondered whether the parks would somehow, miraculously, dodge a death by a thousand cuts.

Now it’s clear that is not at all true.

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David Ports backpacking the Tonto Trail west of Horn Creek in Grand Canyon National Park.

Backpacking the Grand Canyon: Tonto West to Boucher Trail

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By Michael Lanza

A thin, hazy overcast keeps the sun from frying my longtime friend and adventure partner David Ports and me as we descend the Grand Canyon’s South Kaibab Trail—a trail I’ve now hiked more times than I can immediately recall. And yet, watching how the marching, broken clouds cause the light to shift across the broad expanse of canyon visible to us, seeming to repaint and reshape the landscape every few minutes, it still feels fresh and thrilling to me.

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A backpacker descending toward Granite Creek on the Wonderland Trail in Mount Rainier National Park.

Backpacking Mount Rainier’s Wonderland Trail—A Photo Gallery

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By Michael Lanza

On the first afternoon of a five-day, late-summer backpacking trip covering much of the 93-mile Wonderland Trail around Mount Rainier, two friends and I were making a long ascent through meadows bursting with lupine when we spotted two mountain goats staring at us from rocks partly hidden by bushes—and within seconds, we counted nine goats. Not much later, the morning fog finally lifted, revealing Mount Rainier in all its glory, a vast mountainside of ice and snow rising nearly 8,000 feet above us. Crossing endless wildflower meadows in warm sunshine, a light breeze, and just about perfect hiking temperatures, we reached Panhandle Gap at 6,750 feet—the highest point on the Wonderland—with its expansive view of The Mountain. Below us, at least 18 mountain goats grazed in a flat meadow carpeted in green grass.

And that anecdote encapsulates scenes that occurred daily on the Wonderland Trail.

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