Larch trees reflected in Rainbow Lake, North Cascades National Park Complex.

10 Awesome Fall Backpacking Trips

In Backpacking, Family Adventures, National Park Adventures   |   Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,   |   2 Comments

By Michael Lanza

The imminent end of summer always feels a little melancholy. After all, it marks the close of the prime season for getting into the mountains. But it also signals the beginning of a time of year when many mountain ranges become less crowded just as they’re hitting a sweet zone in terms of temperatures, the lack of bugs, and fall foliage color. Autumn also stands out as an ideal season for many canyon hikes, with moderate temperatures and even some stunning color.

From Yosemite to the North Cascades (lead photo, above), Grand Canyon to Grand Teton, the Great Smokies to the Olympics, and more, here are 10 of my favorite backpacking trips that are best served up in fall.

 

A backpacker crossing Park Creek Pass, North Cascades National Park.

Todd Arndt backpacking over Park Creek Pass, North Cascades National Park.

No. 1 North Cascades National Park

In the last week of September, with huckleberries ripe and tasty and the larch trees blazing yellow with fall color (lead photo at top of story), a friend and I took an 80-mile hike through the heart of the North Cascades National Park Complex, a sprawling swath of heavily glaciated mountains and thickly forested valleys. Our grand tour from Easy Pass Trailhead to Bridge Creek Trailhead took us through virgin forests of giant cedars, hemlocks, and Douglas firs, and over four passes, including Park Creek Pass, where waterfalls and glaciers pour off cliffs and jagged, snowy peaks.

We enjoyed five sunny, glorious early-fall days; but, of course, snow can fall in these mountains in September, so watch the forecast. The good news: It’s easy to get a backcountry permit—no reservation needed in most of the park. North Cascades has long been one of my favorite parks (it has one of the most inspiring backcountry campsites I’ve ever slept in). But not many backpackers know this place: It’s one of America’s least-visited national parks. That’s good if you like solitude.

See my story “Primal Wild: Backpacking 80 Miles Through the North Cascades,” which also describes shorter variations of the 80-mile route.

 

Read about how climate change is affecting the North Cascades and other parks in my book
Before They’re Gone—A Family’s Year-Long Quest to Explore America’s Most Endangered National Parks.

 

David Ports hiking the Tonto Trail in Salt Creek Canyon, Grand Canyon National Park.

David Ports hiking the Tonto Trail in Salt Creek Canyon, Grand Canyon National Park.

No. 2 Grand Canyon National Park

You already know that spring and fall are the prime seasons for backpacking in the Grand Canyon. But while weather can be unstable in either season, in spring you’re aiming for a window between when snow and ice melt off the rims in April and when the scorching temps hit the inner canyon in May. In fall, though, you’ll enjoy dry trails, a surprising amount of color in the sparse desert vegetation, and pleasant temperatures often lasting into November (which was when I backpacked there with my daughter).

Backpacking permits for the corridor trails—the South and North Kaibab and Bright Angel—are in high demand. Sure, grab those campsites if available; but if not, I recommend the 29-mile hike from Grandview Point to the South Kaibab Trailhead or the 25-mile hike from Hermits Rest to the Bright Angel Trailhead—or even combining or overlapping them. Both feature sublime campsites, stretches of flatter hiking along the Tonto Trail with views reaching from the Colorado River to the South and North rims, and crossings of deep side canyons with flaming-red walls shooting straight up hundreds of feet.

See my stories “Dropping Into the Grand Canyon: A Four-Day Hike From Grandview Point to the South Kaibab Trail,” and “One Extraordinary Day: A 25-Mile Dayhike in the Grand Canyon” (photo above), and all of my stories about South Rim backpacking trips. And watch for my upcoming feature story about backpacking the Grand Canyon’s Thunder River-Deer Creek Loop.

 

Show up and hike. See my story “How to Get a Last-Minute, National Park Backcountry Permit.”

 

Noland Creek in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Noland Creek in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

No. 3 Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Unquestionably one of the East’s premier backpacking destinations, the Great Smokies have two peak seasons: spring, when about 1,600 species of flowering plants—more than found in any other national park—come into bloom; and fall, when dry air and moderate temperatures settle in, insects have mostly disappeared, and the forest paints itself in the brilliant hues of autumn foliage. While you’ve probably seen many photos of the classic vistas from Great Smokies summits of overlapping rows of blue, wooded ridges fading to a distant horizon, I’ve found that much of the park’s magic resides in its rocky streams tumbling through cascades, and a diverse forest where you may hear only the sound of birds.

On a 34-mile, October hike in the park, beginning near Fontana Lake and traversing a stretch of the Appalachian Trail, I enjoyed a grand tour of this half-million-acre park, including 6,643-foot Clingmans Dome and the park’s highest bald, 5,920-foot Andrews Bald. I also found a surprising degree of solitude, even in the very popular fall hiking season.

See my feature story about that trip, “In the Garden of Eden: Backpacking the Great Smoky Mountains,” and all my stories about Great Smoky Mountains National Park and hiking and backpacking in western North Carolina.

 


Hi, I’m Michael Lanza, creator of The Big Outside, which has made several top outdoors blog lists. Click here to sign up for my FREE email newsletter. Subscribe now to get full access to all of my blog’s stories. Click here to learn how I can help you plan your next trip. Please follow my adventures on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and Youtube.


 

Mark Fenton above the Lyell Fork of Merced River Canyon, Yosemite National Park.

Mark Fenton above the Lyell Fork of Merced River Canyon, Yosemite National Park.

No. 4 Yosemite National Park

Want to know the hardest thing about backpacking in Yosemite? Getting the permit. Well, okay, the hiking itself can be tough at times. But the competition for backcountry permits in this flagship park is stiff, especially for popular trailheads in and around Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows. That’s why backpackers in the know go after Labor Day. While early-season snowstorms occasionally slam the High Sierra in autumn, nice weather often lingers through September and well into October—my favorite time in the High Sierra.

With the population pressure eased up in late summer and autumn, you can often score a walk-in permit—without a reservation—for a five-star hike of almost any distance, hitting top Yosemite summits like Clouds Rest and Mount Hoffmann, and the incomparable Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River, plus remoter areas like Red Peak Pass, the highest pass reached by trail in Yosemite. Then the only hard aspect of the hike will be… yea, the hike.

See my stories “Best of Yosemite, Part 1: Backpacking South of Tuolumne Meadows,” “Best of Yosemite, Part 2: Backpacking Remote Northern Yosemite,” “Ask Me: Where to Backpack First Time in Yosemite,” and “Ask Me: Where Can I Hike in Yosemite in Late Fall?” and all of my stories about Yosemite National Park and California national parks at The Big Outside.

 

Plan your next great backpacking trip in Yosemite, Grand Teton, and other parks using my expert e-guides.

 

A backpacker at Toleak Point, Olympic National Park.

A backpacker at Toleak Point, Olympic National Park.

No. 5 Olympic National Park Coast

The longest stretch of wilderness coastline in the contiguous United States—the 73-mile strip of Olympic National Park hugging the Pacific—preserves one of America’s most unique and scenic backpacking trips. And the Pacific Northwest’s typically glorious summer weather can last into October, when temperatures remain moderate on the coast. With a weather window of two to three days, you can knock off a section of the coast.

The northern coast attracts more backpackers and dayhikers, but the 17.5-mile, two- to three-day hike along the southern coast, from the Hoh River north to La Push Road, features similar scenery and fewer people. And what a hike it is: giant trees in one of Earth’s largest virgin temperature rainforests; sea stacks rising up to 200 feet out of the ocean; boulders wallpapered with sea stars, mussels, and sea anemones; sightings of seals, sea otters, whales; and rugged (and sometimes muddy) hiking on overland trails, with rope ladders to climb and descend very steep terrain.

See my story “The Wildest Shore: Backpacking the Southern Olympic Coast.”

 

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Backpackers hiking through lupine and other wildflowers, Death Canyon Shelf, Grand Teton National Park.

Backpackers and wildflowers, Death Canyon Shelf, Grand Teton National Park.

No. 6 Grand Teton National Park

Like Yosemite and Grand Canyon, Grand Teton is a park where securing a backcountry permit reservation requires being on top of the process months in advance; after May 15, no reservations are accepted for the rest of the year, and only walk-in permits are issued, up to a day in advance of a multi-day hike. But the park also sets aside about two-thirds of available campsites for walk-ins. While demand is huge for those during July and August, as with other parks, it tails off steadily after Labor Day.

The combination of relatively high elevations and a northerly latitude brings a slightly higher probability that snow will fly in the Tetons in late summer or early fall. But beautiful summer weather, with pleasant days and crisp nights, can extend into late September and even October, a season when you’ll see aspens turn golden and hear rutting elk bugling. And few backpackers show up at park offices seeking a permit—you can walk in, grab one, and go.

See my stories “American Classic: The Teton Crest Trail” and “Walking Familiar Ground: Reliving Old Memories and Making New Ones on the Teton Crest Trail,” and all of my Ask Me posts about Grand Teton National Park.

 

I’ve helped many readers plan an unforgettable backpacking trip on the Teton Crest Trail.
Want my help with yours? Find out more here.

 

Backpackers in Chimney Rock Canyon, Capitol Reef National Park.

My family backpacking in Chimney Rock Canyon, Capitol Reef National Park.

No. 7 Capitol Reef National Park

Spring and fall are the seasons to backpack in the desert Southwest, mostly because the blazing heat of summer has dialed back to a temperature range that humans can survive. In Capitol Reef, with its somewhat higher and cooler elevations, the fall hiking season stretches from early September well into November. And consider this fact: While many of the Southwest’s best backpacking trips require applying for a permit months in advance, so few people backpack in Capitol Reef that you can show up at the visitor center’s backcountry desk, grab a free permit for a multi-day hike, and hit the trail immediately—no reservation needed.

And Capitol Reef’s soaring red cliffs and white beehive formations, broad river canyons and narrow slots certainly compete with southern Utah’s four other national parks in the splendor department. I’ve backpacked with my family in Spring Canyon—where easy hiking and water availability were much appreciated with young kids—done an overnight camping on the rim above Upper Muley Twist Canyon, and made a stunningly beautiful and adventurous, mostly off-trail, three-day traverse of the park’s signature feature, the topographical maze of cliffs and canyons known as the Waterpocket Fold.

See my stories “The 5 Southwest Backpacking Trips You Should Do First,” “Plunging Into Solitude: Dayhiking, Slot Canyoneering, and Backpacking in Capitol Reef,” “Ask Me: Where Should We Backpack in Capitol Reef National Park,” and “The Most Beautiful Hike You’ve Never Heard Of: Crossing Utah’s Capitol Reef,” plus all of my stories about Capitol Reef National Park and hiking and backpacking in southern Utah at The Big Outside.

 

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A hiker at Zeacliff, overlooking the Pemigewasset Wilderness, White Mountains, N.H.

Mark Fenton at Zeacliff, overlooking the Pemigewasset Wilderness, White Mountains, N.H.

No. 8 White Mountains

If ever there were mountains that screamed to be explored in fall, these are those. New Hampshire’s rocky and steep White Mountains are where I wore out my first several pairs of hiking boots, and I still return every year for their awe-inspiring brand of suffering. While the fall colors that usually peak in early October are beautiful throughout the Whites, my top two picks for fall backpacking trips are a 32-mile loop around the Pemigewasset Wilderness and a 24-mile traverse from Crawford Notch to Franconia Notch, mostly on the Appalachian Trail.

The 32-mile Pemi Loop from the Lincoln Woods Trailhead on the Kancamagus Highway (NH 112) crosses eight official 4,000-foot summits, including the alpine traverse of Franconia Ridge—with its constant panorama encompassing most of the Whites—and a walk along the rocky crest of remote Bondcliff, in the heart of the Pemigewasset. Crawford to Franconia overlaps some of the Pemi Loop’s highlights, while adding killer views of Crawford and Zealand notches. (Tip: Definitely take the short side trip to the overlook at Zeacliff, photo above.) And you can add on the summits of Bond, Bondcliff, and West Bond by tacking on an out-and-back side trip that adds several miles.

See my stories “Still Crazy After All These Years: Hiking in the White Mountains,” “Being Stupid With Friends: A 32-Mile Dayhike in the White Mountains,” about dayhiking the Pemi Loop, and “Ask Me: What Are Your Favorite New England Hikes?

 

Be comfortable on your hikes. See my review of “The 5 Best Rain Jackets For the Backcountry.”

 

Jeff Wilhelm backpacking Gnarl Ridge on the Timberline Trail, Mount Hood.

Jeff Wilhelm backpacking Gnarl Ridge on the Timberline Trail, Mount Hood.

No. 9 Mount Hood’s Timberline Trail

A multi-day hike with views around almost every bend of a towering volcano draped in snow and ice, where you pass through forests of ancient, big trees—sounds like the classic Wonderland Trail around Mount Rainier, right? Actually, it’s the 41-mile Timberline Trail looping Oregon’s 11,239-foot Mount Hood, and it competes with the better-known Wonderland for scenic splendor, waterfalls, and wildflower meadows, while delivering a higher degree of excitement and challenge with its full-value creek crossings. Although the wildflowers are obviously past bloom in fall, the creek crossings become reassuringly easier, the crowds thinner, the air crisper, and the views no less stunning.

Granted, the year’s first snowfall can certainly happen at Hood in September or October. That said, autumn delivers many days of glorious weather in the Pacific Northwest, and the Timberline is less than half the distance of the Wonderland, making it easier to knock off with a decent weather window. (Plus, unlike the Wonderland, the Timberline involves no permit hoops to jump through.) If the forecast promises a string of three to five reasonably nice days, aim your compass for the Timberline Trail.

See my story “Full of Surprises: Backpacking Mount Hood’s Timberline Trail.”

 

Time for a better backpack? See my picks for “The 10 Best Backpacking Packs
and the best thru-hiking pack.

 

Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve, Colorado.

Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve, Colorado.

No. 10 Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve

Not many natural features produce their own kind of music. But that’s exactly what happens when you walk along the crest of giant sand dunes—which are often as narrow as the peak of a roof, or barely the width of your boot: Sand cascades down the dune’s very steep sides, creating squeaking and booming sounds described as “singing.” If that’s not magical enough, the night sky riddled with stars and the vivid colors of the dunes—exaggerated in morning light—make this one of the most unique backpacking trips in the country.

Too hot throughout summer—and absolutely waterless, meaning you have to carry all you’ll for an overnight exploration—Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve is best in spring or fall. November brings pleasant days and often a frost that sparkles on the frozen sand in early morning.

See my story “Exploring America’s Big Sandbox: Colorado’s Great Sand Dunes.”

 

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2 Responses to 10 Awesome Fall Backpacking Trips

  1. TJ   |  September 22, 2016 at 8:22 pm

    My favorite time of year for longer trips. Bet a lot of backpackers feel the same. Especially those who dig the Sierras and/or the Southwest. Warm days, cool nights, relatively stable weather, no bugs, few people, awesome color…

    Good roundup. The Fall has it All.

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